So close to the sky | Crossing the Tour du Ciel

We sit with a panaché on the sun terrace of the Cabane du Mountet, surrounded by a backdrop of beautifully shaped four-thousand-metre peaks, the Ober Gabelhorn, the Dent Blanche and its majestic neighbours. A world of snow and ice spreads out before us: Crevasses, séracs and curved shapes modelled by wind and time. In the distance, lonely ski tracks can be seen that are ours. A powerful feeling. Today we were almost alone on the way to our second stage destination.

A quiet start in the fog

Yesterday lunchtime we set off with our mountain guide from Zermatt to the Schönbüelhütte. Thick fog and light snowfall accompanied us, the Matterhorn remained hidden at first. When we arrived at the hut, we were the only guests. „We'll be fully booked again tomorrow,“ said the hut owner. We enjoyed the peace and quiet of the night all the more. At dawn, I sleepily made my way to the toilet block and could hardly believe my eyes: the gigantic north face of the Matterhorn was enthroned right in front of me as the sun rose over the mountains.

In the rhythm of the ascent

The fresh new snow promised the best conditions, so we set off early. We headed over the Hohwäng Glacier to Col Durand. Once we reached the top, we were greeted by a 360° panorama in a class of its own. Our descent over the Durand glacier was pure joy. Whoops echoed through the powder snow as we glided through the vast glacier landscape.
We had more than earned our panaché at the Mountet hut after the counter-climb in the spring sunshine.

Of hash browns, bars and hunger pangs

In the evening at the Mountet hut, we worried for the first time about something we had joked about the day before: whether we would get enough to eat on the tour. But when the second helping arrived, it was clear that we would definitely get our fill. We told our mountain guide that our provisions consisted of a single bar per day, as there was simply no room for more in a 30-litre rucksack. He grinned and promised: „Tomorrow we'll have rösti in the Cabane Arpitettaz.“ A wise plan, as it turned out later.

Sunrise and ridge climbing

The next morning we set off early in the direction of Blanc du Moming. The ascent was frosty. The sun only kissed the highest peaks while we were still climbing in the shade. The first warm rays only reached us shortly before the ridge climb. This moment was magical: the sun on my face, my hands on the rock, the mountain world all around. I didn't know what was better - the warmth, the ridge or the view. So I just enjoyed everything. At the summit, we treated ourselves to our bar of the day. This was followed by a fantastic descent over the Glacier de Moming, a short ascent and finally golden yellow rösti with cheese at the Cabane Arpitettaz. Looking back at our track, this moment felt like magic.

Of altitude metres and hut luxury

The third stage was demanding: three skins, around 2000 metres of altitude, varied terrain. But the long descents in a dream of powder and firn made up for every effort. At 3256 metres, the new Tracuit hut awaited us, a modern luxury liner among mountain huts. Warm, bright and cosy. At dinner - six portions of spaghetti for four - we celebrated our little mountain community and filled our bellies.

The summit of the Bishorn

The next morning we headed for the Bishorn. A 4000 metre peak steeped in history, once climbed by a woman for the first time. We were filled with pride and anticipation: soon we two women would be at the top too. In -20 °C and strong winds, we trudged up the slope in our onion jackets. Hardly any words, just breath and movement. My friend dug out some heat packs: „Wau, wo hoschen de iats hear?“ I asked, grateful when she handed me one. She tucked hers into her back pockets. „Yes, we had frozen arses too,“ we laughed later.
Shortly before the summit, the wind died down. Suddenly silence. A magical moment. We trudged the last few metres, stood at 4153 m, the Weisshorn within our grasp, a sea of peaks all around. We lay in each other's arms, happy and exhausted.

The joy of departure and the last of your strength

The descent over the Truttmann Glacier started off rough, but became pure pleasure further down. „Yes! Awesome!“ we shouted in chorus. But the next ascent was already waiting. And another one. „Somwenn isch nor a mol genua!“ my friend complained with a laugh.
I replied: „Nor verdianen mir ins is Panaché holt noamol!“ The Truttmannhütte towered above us and the panaché up there tasted like a reward for everything.

Between exhaustion and fulfilment

In the evening, we sat in the hut, tired but satisfied. Pride mingled with a longing for a shower and running water. What drives you to trek through the Alps for days on end with a heavy rucksack and little comfort? The answer came later, after the last stage.

Farewell to the path to heaven

Because the railway to St. Niklaus was closed for maintenance, we had to change our plans. Our mountain guide, as always full of ideas, suggested one last ascent to the summit. One last ascent, one last moment of happiness in the fresh new snow. I felt melancholy: this adventure would soon come to an end. But I remember the people more than the mountains. In five days, strangers had become a team. We set off on our last descent down a freshly snow-covered slope, the expanse and cheers echoing through the valley.
Then, over chips in the „Take Away“ at the valley station, the answer to the question of „why“ was given:

„Because it is fulfilling to experience nature so intensively, to cross boundaries and to grow. Outdoors, we not only find new paths, but also new sides to ourselves. And the people we share these moments with remain part of our story for a lifetime.“

We travel back with a broad grin. From where we came from and yet changed.
Every climb, every cold finger and every heavy rucksack was worth it for this feeling.