Climbing tour | Fergenkegel south face with mountain guide

Alpine insider tip in the Silvretta! Enjoy alpine climbing on the striking Gneisturm tower nestled in the wild landscape of the Silvretta.

Technics
Endurance
To the dates and registration

Fergenkegel

The Fergenkegel is a real insider tip for alpine climbers who are looking for something special away from the big classics: A striking gneiss tower, embedded in the wild landscape of the Silvretta, with a direct view of the Fergenhörner and the Vereina Valley. The elegant line through the approximately 220 metre high south face is not only scenically impressive, but also offers varied climbing with a good grip on the best rock.

The route follows logical crack systems, slabs and stepped passages - ideal for anyone who wants to combine solid climbing technique in the fourth degree of difficulty with alpine flair. The demands remain moderate: the difficulties hardly exceed 4b, but still require attention, a sense of orientation and safe rope handling in the terrain, some of which can be secured independently. Anyone who enjoys classic alpine routes without the crowds will find a tour with plenty of character here.

The Fergenkegel is not a route for headlines - but one for the soul: calm, clear, honest. That's exactly why it stays in your memory for a long time.

  • Meeting point and procedure

    • Day 1 Hut access and training

      1000 Hm

      10.00 a.m. Klosters Platz

      We meet on Saturday at 10.00 am at Klosters Platz railway station. We then continue together to Monbiel and ascend to the cosy Fergenhütte in about 3 hours. Cosily furnished with cooking facilities and an idyllic log cabin toilet right next door. We spend the afternoon in the surroundings of the hut and do a training block, in which your wishes can also be incorporated. We will carry our own dinner up and prepare it together in the evening, so keep some space free in your rucksack.

      On Sunday, after a good (self-carried) breakfast, our tour begins directly in front of the Fergenhütte, from where we climb up to the start in around 1.5 hours. After a short approach, the alpine adventure begins: nine varied pitches lead us through the sunlit south face to the panoramic summit. The surroundings are quiet, unspoilt and ideal for anyone looking for the pure experience of alpine climbing with a motivated rope team.

    • Day 2 Climbing tour Fergenkegel

      300 Hm

      1300 metres altitude

      approx. 17.00 hrs Klosters Platz railway station

      On Sunday, after a good (self-carried) breakfast, our tour begins directly in front of the Fergenhütte, from where we climb up to the start in around 1.5 hours. After a short approach, the alpine adventure begins: nine varied pitches lead us through the sunlit south face to the panoramic summit. The surroundings are quiet, unspoilt and ideal for anyone looking for the pure experience of alpine climbing with a motivated rope team.

      Once at the top, we enjoy the view and take a short break to fortify ourselves for the descent. We take a short break at the Fergenhütte before tackling the descent together and rounding off the tour.

  • Requirements

    • You know how to belay on climbing tours and are experienced in multi-pitch climbing.
    • You can climb up to the 4th grade (4b, often easier).
    • Stamina for an ascent of 1000 metres on Saturday and a climbing tour of approx. 5 hours plus descent on Sunday.
  • Price and services

    • CHF 1090.-
    • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his/her travel expenses
    • Including accommodation costs with dinner and breakfast
    • Excluding travelling expenses, any train tickets, personal consumption
  • Material and equipment

    • For this tour you need the following material from this PDF. We carry our equipment with us all the time. Pack only what is necessary.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably directly at Larissa or via the Contact form

Impressions: Fergenkegel

How to get to the Fergenkegel with us:

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Category

Period

Information on endurance and technique

Here you will find the organisation of our tours as a guideline. If you are unsure which level suits you best, feel free to get in touch - We can help you!

Technics

Technology 1 - for beginners

Easy tours, suitable for beginners. The terrain is easy and moderate. No previous mountaineering experience is necessary.

High toursExperience in hiking and walking in pathless terrain. No previous knowledge of mountaineering necessary.

Technique 2 - Leisurely tours

Easy to slightly challenging tours with short, steeper sections that we master together and with coaching. You are ready for this level after a basic or taster course.

High toursYou know the basics of using ice axes and crampons. There are easy scrambling sections up to 1° difficulty.

Technique 3 - Medium tours

Medium-difficulty tours with short, technical sections that are easy to do with some previous experience. You have already done a few tours and feel confident with your equipment and technique.

High toursYou have practice walking with ice axe and crampons. There are scrambling sections up to the 2nd level of difficulty.

Technique 4 - First big tours

Challenging tours with longer, steeper passages that require a good level of experience and skill. We secure these sections with ropes and coach you through difficult sections. Suitable for adventure-seekers with solid basic training.

High toursYou have experience with ice axes and crampons and you can move efficiently on easy rocky terrain. There are scrambling sections up to the 3rd level of difficulty.

Technique 5 - Grand tours

Very demanding tours, with technical passages that require a good level of experience and skill. These are secured, but smooth, rapid progress is required. For experienced climbers with plenty of experience and a thirst for adventure.

High toursYou have extensive experience with ice axes and crampons. You move efficiently and safely in alpine terrain. Climbing routes up to the 4th level of difficulty.

Endurance

Endurance 1 - Easy tours

Easy tours with plenty of time to take a break and enjoy.

  • Elevation gain: approx. 500 - 800 metres per day, 
  • Pace: approx. 250 - 300 m / h.
Endurance 2 - Leisurely tours

"Normal" tour at a leisurely pace with 800 - 1000 vertical metres per day, ~300 hm / h.

Endurance 3 - Medium tours

Longer tours at a steady, fluid pace. A solid basic level of fitness is required here.

  • Elevation gain: approx. 1200 metres per day
  • Pace: approx. 350 m / h.
Endurance 4 - First big tours

Long and challenging tours at a brisk but constant pace. Ideal for active sports enthusiasts.

  • Elevation gain: up to 1500 metres per day
  • Pace: approx. 350 m / h.
Endurance 5 - Long tours

Very long tours with more than 1500 metres in altitude per day. Requires very good fitness and stamina.

  • Elevation metres: 1500 m + per day
  • Pace: approx. 400 m / h.

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