The Fergenkegel is a real insider tip for alpine climbers who are looking for something special away from the big classics: A striking gneiss tower, embedded in the wild landscape of the Silvretta, with a direct view of the Fergenhörner and the Vereina Valley. The elegant line through the approximately 220 metre high south face is not only scenically impressive, but also offers varied climbing with a good grip on the best rock.
The route follows logical crack systems, slabs and stepped passages - ideal for anyone who wants to combine solid climbing technique in the fourth degree of difficulty with alpine flair. The demands remain moderate: the difficulties hardly exceed 4b, but still require attention, a sense of orientation and safe rope handling in the terrain, some of which can be secured independently. Anyone who enjoys classic alpine routes without the crowds will find a tour with plenty of character here.
On Saturday we climb up to the cosy Fergenhütte in about 3 hours. Cosily furnished with cooking facilities and an idyllic log cabin toilet right next door. We spend the afternoon in the surroundings of the hut and do a training block, in which your wishes can also be incorporated. We will carry our own dinner up and prepare it together in the evening, so keep some space free in your rucksack.
On Sunday, after a good (self-carried) breakfast, our tour begins directly in front of the Fergenhütte, from where we climb up to the start in around 1.5 hours. After a short approach, the alpine adventure begins: nine varied pitches lead us through the sunlit south face to the panoramic summit. The surroundings are quiet, unspoilt and ideal for anyone looking for the pure experience of alpine climbing with a motivated rope team.
The Fergenkegel is not a route for headlines - but one for the soul: calm, clear, honest. That's exactly why it stays in your memory for a long time.
