Intensive alpine touring course 4000m

• Procedure and course content

  • Meeting place

    9.50 am, Zermatt railway station, kiosk

    We’ll meet in the morning at the kiosk by the railway station in Zermatt. We recommend travelling by train. Anyone arriving by car should park in Täsch (Zermatt is car-free) and can then easily drive on to Saas-Fee from there after the first few days of the tour. After being welcomed by the mountain guide, we’ll walk together to the Klein Matterhorn cable car and travel to the Trockener Steg midway station, our starting point for the first stage of our journey into the high-alpine glacier world.

  • Day 1: Introduction to the course and hike up to the Gandegghütte

    We begin straight away with the first training modules in the area around the Gandegghütte. We look at equipment and go over the key basics of rope and crampon techniques. The surrounding glacier area offers ideal opportunities to refresh our existing knowledge and carry out our first practical exercises.

    We spend a cosy evening at the Gandegghütte, enjoying the stunning view of the Theodul Glacier and the Matterhorn.

  • Day 2: Breithorn and moving on to Saas Fee

    Early in the morning, we take the cable car to the Klein Matterhorn and set out to tackle our first four-thousander: the Breithorn. The summit offers magnificent views across the Valais Alps and, at the same time, ideal conditions for putting what we learnt the day before into practice straight away. We gain our first experience of real high-altitude conditions whilst walking on a rope, using crampons and moving across the glacier.

    After the climb, we return to the valley and travel on to Saas-Fee, where we check into our accommodation. The afternoon offers the chance to relax in the spa and recharge our batteries for the upcoming days of touring. Over dinner together, we discuss the rest of the programme.

  • Day 3: Ascent of the Allalinhorn

    Today, the Allalinhorn – another well-known four-thousander – is on the itinerary. We’ll take the Metro Alpin to Mittelallalin and from there hike towards the summit via the Feechopf and the Fee Glacier.
    Along the way, we’ll put what we’ve learnt so far into practice and go into more depth on the key topics of glacier walking, crampon technique and rope safety. At the summit, an impressive 360° panorama of the Valais and Bernese Alps awaits us. After the ascent, we’ll return to the Britannia Hut.

    We’ll spend the afternoon relaxing and rounding off the day together. At the same time, we’ll be getting ready for the next day of training.

  • Day 4: Training day around the Britannia Hut

    Today, the focus is on specifically developing our technical skills. In the terrain around the Britannia Hut, we’ll take the time to practise various rope and belay techniques, refine our belay station set-up and learn about crevasse rescue. We take a practical approach and work at each participant’s own pace. Every participant is given the opportunity to practise the various procedures independently, correct any mistakes and gain more confidence in using alpine equipment.

    In the afternoon, we return to the hut and enjoy the view of the imposing Mischabel range. Over dinner together, we round off the day’s training and prepare for the final day of climbing.

  • Day 5: Ascent of the Strahlhorn

    To round off our week of training, another highlight awaits: the ascent of the Strahlhorn. Early in the morning, we set off from the Britannia Hut and make our way towards the summit at a steady pace across the Allaling Glacier. Along the way, we put into practice everything we have learnt and practised over the past few days: efficient roped walking, navigation, belaying techniques and touring tactics in high-alpine terrain. Once at the top, we enjoy the impressive views of the Mischabel range, the Monte Rosa massif and far into Piedmont. We then descend back to the hut and on to the Felskinn cable car, which takes us comfortably down into the valley.

  • Conclusion

    around 3 pm, Saas-Fee

    After five intensive and memorable days of training, we say our goodbyes to one another in Saas-Fee and set off on our individual journeys home.

  • Course content & learning objectives

    During this five-day high-altitude mountaineering course, you will learn and consolidate the key technical skills required to navigate safely on glaciers and in high-alpine terrain. You’ll practise using ropes, ice axes and crampons, learn about various belaying and rescue techniques, and put your skills into practice on several four-thousand-metre peaks.

    1. Materials and Equipment

    • Assembly and use of high-altitude mountaineering equipment
    • Handling ropes, carabiners and belay equipment
    • Function and use of crampons and ice axes
    • Choice of equipment and its appropriate use in alpine terrain

    2. Glacier techniques and walking with an ice axe and crampons

    • How to rope up correctly on a glacier
    • Efficient crampon technology
    • Walking with ice axe and crampons
    • Getting on and off safely in snow and ice
    • Orientation and behaviour on the glacier

    3. Rope and belaying techniques

    • Various roping-up and belaying techniques
    • Walking efficiently on a rope
    • Appropriate use of safety equipment depending on the situation
    • Stand construction
    • Anchoring and moving in alpine terrain

    4. Column rescue

    • The basics of column rescue
    • Dealing with various emergency situations
    • Practical training in rescue procedures
    • Application of rope and safety techniques

    5. Practical application in full swing

    • Applying the techniques learnt on the Breithorn
    • Advanced training in glacier and roping techniques on the Allalinhorn
    • Targeted technical training around the Britannia Hut
    • Independent practice and consolidation on the Strahlhorn
    • Personalised feedback from the mountain guide

    6. Hiking tactics and behaviour in the high mountains

    • Efficient and safe movement in high-alpine terrain
    • Assessment of the current situation
    • Navigation on glaciers
    • Making decisions on the go that are appropriate to the situation
    • Assessing one’s own abilities and limitations

• Requirements

  • Good basic fitness (up to 6 hours a day in the mountains).
  • You don’t need any prior experience of mountaineering.
  • Sure-footedness in alpine terrain.
  • A desire to learn new things and take on responsibility.

• Price and services

  • CHF 1525.-
  • Small group with 4 - 6 guests per mountain guide.
  • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
  • Including overnight stay in a hut with half board
  • Excluding travel expenses, possible train tickets, personal consumption.

• Material and equipment

  • For this tour you need the material from this PDF. We carry our equipment with us the whole time. Only pack the essentials.
  • General material and packing tips we have also put together for you.

Impressions: Intensive course 4000m