Bockmattli | Crossing from the Great Tower

The Bockmattli with its striking towers is a wild, proud piece of mountain. On clear evenings, the Great Bockmattli Tower shines in the evening sun and is clearly visible as far as Zurich and the surrounding area. The limestone wall then shines almost golden.

Our route leads over the Deubergrat, the "easiest" way to reach the Grosser Turm. The approach goes through the small Chälen up into the west basin. After a short descent, we reach the start of the Rippe. This is where the actual climbing begins: four pitches in the 3rd to lower 4th degree of difficulty, airy and imposing, up to the saddle between the tower and the main summit. From there, the route is easier, but still exposed, up to the Great Tower.

Standing at the top is a special experience: Lake Zurich below us, wild rocky terrain all around. Definitely a place with character. The descent leads through typical mountaineering terrain over to the main summit of the Bockmattli and then along the hiking trail back through the Gross Chälen into the valley. Passing the climbing hut is the perfect opportunity to celebrate the experience with a glass and enjoy the view of the impressive Bockmattli profile once again.

Good to know: Climbing history was written early on at Bockmattli. The first ascent of the 400 metre high north face in 1947 by young local climbers caused a sensation far and wide. The Bockmattli suddenly became known as a climbing paradise. Elite climbers from all over Switzerland and neighbouring countries met here regularly. Later, in the 1980s, the famous "Supertramp" route was created, which characterised the free climbing style in the Alps.