Introduction to the world of north faces | Introduction to rock and ice with a mountain guide

• Procedure and meeting place

  • Day 1 - Meeting point

    10:15 a.m., Champex Lac

    We will meet in Champex-Lac.

  • Day 1 - Approach to the hut and training

    1000 Hm

    T4

    The first day takes us on a scenic approach to the Trienthütte hut. The trail passes the Ornyhütte hut and offers unobstructed views of the Petit Clocher du Portalet – an imposing, smooth granite wall with perfect crack lines. At the Trienthütte, we fortify ourselves with a delicious piece of cake before starting our first short training session, which focuses on revising important basics. You will also receive an introduction to hazards and risk management on north-facing terrain – an essential component for all upcoming tours.

    We enjoy the evening together in the cosy and newly renovated hut with a delicious dinner.

  • Day 2-3 – Training and application

    On days 2 and 3, the focus is on intensive training and application of north face techniques. You will practise moving safely with crampons and ice axes on steep firn and ice and train in setting up safety devices in ice – from ice screws and hourglasses to ice bulbs – as well as in firn with T-anchors and improvised anchors. Controlled abseiling on ice and firn slopes is also part of the programme.

    At the same time, we will delve deeper into route selection and planning for north faces, analyse terrain features and learn how to assess lines efficiently and safely. Depending on the group's abilities and needs, we will undertake short practical tours, for example on the Petite Fourche via the small north face or at the glacier break, as well as in the couloir of the Aiguille du Tour.

    You will receive continuous individual guidance, feedback on your technique and develop a confident, self-assured feeling for movement, decision-making and risk management in alpine terrain.

  • Day 4 – Application tour and descent

    On the last day of the course, we will go on an application tour, where we will put what we have learned into practice. Depending on conditions and the group's wishes, the Couloir Copt with abseiling is a special highlight. We will plan the tour together the evening before to optimally coordinate the route, safety aspects and the schedule.

    After an intensive, practical day, we return to the valley – with a rucksack full of knowledge, new experiences and unforgettable impressions, well equipped for the next big north face adventure.

  • Conclusion

    approx. 4 p.m., Champex Lac

    We complete the course together.

• Requirements

  • Safe mountaineering on firn, rock and ice. You are already familiar with the basic rules and techniques, e.g. from courses or tours.
  • Experience at full speed with a difficulty level of WS – ZS.
  • Sure-footedness and a head for heights.
  • Practice using crampons, ice axes and ropes.
  • Mental readiness to try out steep terrain and expand your comfort zone under supervision.

• Price and services

  • CHF 1250.-
  • Small group with 3 - 5 guests per mountain guide.
  • Including overnight stay with half board
  • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
  • Excluding travel costs, any train tickets, personal consumption throughout the day and in the evening

• Material and equipment

  • For this tour you need the material from this PDF. We carry our equipment with us the whole time. Only pack the essentials.
  • General material and packing tips we have also put together for you.

Impressions: Entering the north faces