The highlight of this tour is spending a whole week travelling in the gigantic high mountains. We will be travelling on the rugged glaciers and experience up to ten mountains over 4000 metres high. We cross the Monte Rosa massif from hut to hut and finally spend the night in the highest hut in the Alps on the Capanna Margherita. A tour that we will all remember fondly for a long time to come!
Tour
The Spaghetti Tour is an impressive week of high-altitude tours. We cross many 4,000 metre peaks on huge glaciers in a really cool atmosphere. We start from Zermatt along the Swiss-Italian border and experience the high mountains to the full in 5 days. We spend the night in Italian huts with primi and secondi, hence the name "Spaghetti Tour". This tour is rightly popular. It leads past the highest mountains in Switzerland and the glacier landscape is simply gigantic. We often walk on the glacier. There are passages where we walk up a somewhat steeper snow flank, which is secured by the mountain guides, or we scramble up short sections of easy terrain. Just right for you if you have already had your first experience of mountaineering.
Procedure and meeting place
Meeting place
9.15 am Zermatt railway station, kiosk
The meeting point is directly at Zermatt railway station. The meeting point is easily accessible by public transport. If you are travelling by car, you will need to park it in Täsch and travel the last stretch to Zermatt by train. Zermatt is car-free. Welcome and introductions by the mountain guide.
Day 1
350m
750m
WS
Together we walk to the Klein Matterhorn cable car and ride up to 3800 metres. Depending on the group and conditions, we make the tour to the Breithorn. From up there we enjoy great views of Zermatt. We then descend to the Rifugio Val'd'Ayas.
Day 2
800m
650m
WS
Today we climb together over the Castor 4228 m to the Rifugio Quintino Sella at 3585 m. The firn ridge of the Castor is one of the highlights of the Spaghetti Tour. The firn ridge runs beautifully and imposingly to the summit of the Castor.
Day 3
1000m
800m
ZS-
Five 4000m peaks are on the programme today: ascent to the Passo del Naso 4100 m, Ludwigshöhe, Corno Nero 4321 m, Balmenhorn 4215 m and Vincent Pyramide 4215 m. We spend the night in the Rifugio Città di Mantova.
The ascent to Naso 4100m involves easy rock climbing. After the rock, we climb up the firn flank at about 45° in firn and ice.
Day 4
1200m
400m
WS
First part of the stage around the highest hut in the Alps: Parrotspitze 4432 m, Signalkuppe/Capanna Regina Margherita 4554 m, the highest hut in the Alps, where we will also spend the night. Depending on the weather and availability of the hut, the alternative is to descend from the Margherita hut on the same day and spend the night in the Monte Rosa hut.
Day 5
200m
1600m
WS
approx. 3 pm Rotenboden
Our final day is on the Zumsteinspitze 4563 m "just" above the hut. We do this just in time for sunrise. Descent via the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa hut at 2798 m and then via via ferrata and glacier to the Gornergrat railway on the Rotenboden.
Conclusion
approx. 4 pm in Zermatt
Together we take the railway back to Zermatt. We travel back home individually with impressive images in our heads.
Summit destinations
Breithorn 4164 m
Castor 4228 m
Passo del Naso 4100 m
Corno Nero 4321 m
Balmenhorn 4215 m
Vicent Pyramid 4215 m
Ludwigshöhe 4341 m
Parrot tip 4432 m
Signaluppe/Capanna Regina Margherita 4554 m
Zumstein Peak 4563 m
Requirements
First experience with high altitude tours
First experiences with crampons and ice axe.
Fitness for a touring week at 4'000m with 800 - 1200m ascent and descent each time
It is advisable to acclimatise before the tour. To do this, we recommend travelling to Zermatt the day before, undertaking a short hike and spending the night in Zermatt. Alternatively, you can spend the night before on one of the Alpine passes.
Price and services
CHF 2390.-
Rope team with 3 guests per mountain guide.
Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
Including overnight stays in huts with half board.
Excluding personal travelling expenses, train tickets (small Matterhorn) and personal consumption.
Additional costs are incurred for the personal journey to and from the hut, the journey up the Klein Matterhorn (CHF 50 with half-fare travelcard) and personal consumption at the huts. Half board and overnight stays in the huts are included in the price.
If you’d like to undertake this tour as a party of three – that is, with two guests and a mountain guide – please feel free to contact us. The cost is 3,125.- per person, including accommodation in mountain huts and half-board.
Material and equipment
For this tour you need the material from this PDF. We carry our equipment with us all the time. Pack only what is necessary.
Bergschaft tours and courses are conducted in German as standard. However, our mountain guides speak good English, as do many of the participants. If you speak English, you are of course very welcome. Depending on the tour, it may be worth asking us in advance whether the guide and the group are comfortable speaking English.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably via the Contact form.
Accommodation
Rifugio Guide d'Ayas
A friendly hut right on the edge of the glacier! The hut staff are authentically mountainous and even if there is always a schnapps to be had, you will be warmly welcomed here, get great coffee and eat good Italian food.
After crossing the Castor, you come to this hut right on the edge of the glacier. You can spend a cosy afternoon on the large stone terrace and there is also delicious cake!
This accommodation is located above the Punta Indren ski area and is easily accessible. It serves as our starting point to reach the area of the highest hut in Europe. We deliberately choose this accommodation as it is cosier and more spacious than the upper one.
Europe’s highest mountain hut, on the summit of the Zumsteinspitze! They serve slices of “Margherita” pizza here as a snack. It’s incredible to spend the night up here and marvel at the sunset.
I felt very safe and well looked after at all times with the two mountain guides, Philipp Elsener and Florian Bosshard. Both were absolutely confident with the rope, technically proficient, and made sound, calm decisions even in challenging situations.
At the same time, they were very friendly and entertaining. Their joy and enthusiasm for the mountains were infectious and made the tour a truly wonderful experience. I’d go on a trip with them again in a heartbeat!
Joëlle Gort
Mel Zanga - Rolfland Marotta GmbH
Are you looking for: Top mountain guides that you can rely on at all times, who are also up for a laugh and unforgettable and well-organised tours? Then I can only recommend Bergschaft to you. I look back on 5 great days of touring in the Monte Rosa massif and still have a grin on my face. Thank you and see you soon! :)
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