Basic course clean and trad climbing | training and application days with mountain guide

• Procedure and meeting place

  • Day 1 - Meeting point

    09:45 am, Göscheneralp

    We meet at the bus stop Göscheneralp, Dammagletscher

  • Day 1 - Welcome, getting to know each other and hut ascent

    600 Hm

    2h

    We get to know each other and clarify your expectations. Then we start the course with the ascent to the hut. The ascent to the Bergseehütte takes around 2 hours.

  • Day 1 - Training and climbing

    4a-5a

    We use the time during the ascent to refresh our theoretical knowledge and get in the mood for the coming days. Once we arrive at the hut, we treat ourselves to a quick coffee before we start the actual training. We then repack our rucksacks - the climbing-specific equipment goes with us to the rock, the rest we can leave in the hut.

    On the first day, there is a lot of new content on the programme. We deliberately take time to work through the content step by step and repeat it several times so that you gain confidence in its application.

    Daily destination:
    You will learn the basics of climbing without bolts and understand how to move safely on multi-pitch routes. You know where you stand and can build on your newly acquired knowledge and skills.

    Course content

    Communication in the rope team

    • What commands do we use to communicate clearly with each other?

    • Communication via the rope - rope commands and their meaning

    Stand construction

    • Series connection

    • Equalising anchorage

    Belaying on multi-pitches (MSL)

    • Securing at the belay station or with body belay

    • Rope handling

    • Half-rope technique

    Introduction to mobile belay devices

    • Familiarisation with and handling of friends and wedges

    • Placing and assessing the fuses on the floor

    • Stand construction with mobile belay devices

    Abseiling

    • Set up and prepare abseiling points

    • Threading and knotting

    • The 3-point check - safety before abseiling

  • Day 2 - Learning and applying

    4a-5a

    We divide the course content into different lessons to build on existing knowledge. This keeps the learning process structured and allows you to consolidate what you have learnt step by step. On the second day, we deepen the content of the first day, expand your knowledge and apply the new techniques directly on the rock.

    Daily destination:
    You have acquired additional knowledge and skills to safely climb multi-pitch routes with mobile belay devices. You recognise your strengths and know in which areas you would like to gain more experience.

    Course content

    Repetition and consolidation

    • Communication in the rope team

    • Stand construction with mobile belay devices

    • Belaying on multi-pitches

    • Abseiling and retreating

    Climb short multi-pitch routes independently

    • Gain your first experience of self-employment

    • Application of the techniques learnt so far

    Mobile belay devices

    • Deepen your knowledge of friends, wedges & co.

    • Practical application and assessment of the placements in the route

    Crack climbing techniques

    • Introduction to the basic movements and techniques of crack climbing

    • Use of hand and foot clamps (jams) and other methods for safe ascent

    Reflection

    • How did the planned tour go?

    • What have I learnt - and what will I do differently next time?

     

    After an intensive day of training and application, we take a break and enjoy a get-together before dinner. We use the time after dinner to immerse ourselves once again in tour planning and to explore different methods of risk management in greater depth. We plan the tour for the next day together.

  • Day 3 - Apply and consolidate

    4a-5a

    A longer climbing tour is planned where you can apply what you have learnt and gain valuable experience of your own. Together we will go on the planned application tour, consolidate what we have learnt so far and - in a safe environment - dare to step out of your comfort zone.

  • Day 3 - Descent and end of course

    approx. 16:00 hrs, Göscheneralp

    At the end, there is a joint course evaluation before the descent and journey home. During the descent, we talk about the past few days. What have you learnt, what is your next climbing goal and what else do you need?

• Requirements

  • You have gained experience on multi-pitch routes and are familiar with the following rope handling and techniques:
    • • Stand construction
      • Securing with ATC, Tuber etc.
      • Abseiling technique
      • Communication as a rope team on an MSL route
  • We climb in the 4th and lower 5th difficulty ridge (4a-5a) depending on the ability of the participants. The focus is on training and not on the level of difficulty.
  • Condition for climbing tours with a comfortable ascent and descent.

• Price and services

  • CHF 835.-
  • Small group with 4 - 6 guests per mountain guide.
  • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
  • Course materials included.
  • Including overnight stay in a hut with half board
  • Excluding travel costs, any train tickets, personal consumption.

• Material and equipment

  • For this tour you need the following material from this PDF.

That's what our guests say:

Impressions: Basic course clean and trad climbing

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