Deubergrat at Bockmattli | Traverse from the Grosser Turm

The Bockmattli, with its striking towers, is a rugged, majestic stretch of mountain. On clear evenings, the Grosser Bockmattliturm glows in the evening sun and is clearly visible as far as Zurich and the surrounding area. The limestone face then shimmers with an almost golden sheen. Our route takes us over the Deubergrat, the „easiest“ way to reach the Grosser Turm. The approach leads through the Klein Chälen up into the Westkessel. After a short descent, we reach the start of the ridge. This is where the actual climbing begins: four pitches ranging from grade 3 to lower grade 4, exposed and impressive, up to the saddle between the Turm and the main summit. From there, the route becomes easier, though still exposed, as it leads up to the Grosser Turm. Standing at the top is a special experience: Lake Zurich lies below us, surrounded by wild rocky terrain. Definitely a place with character. The descent leads through typical mountaineering terrain over to the main summit of the Bockmattli and then back down the hiking trail through the Gross Chälen into the valley. Passing the climbing hut offers the perfect opportunity to celebrate the experience with a drink and enjoy the view of the impressive Bockmattli silhouette once more.

Good to know: Climbing history was written early on at Bockmattli. The first ascent of the 400 metre high north face in 1947 by young local climbers caused a sensation far and wide. The Bockmattli suddenly became known as a climbing paradise. Elite climbers from all over Switzerland and neighbouring countries met here regularly. Later, in the 1980s, the famous "Supertramp" route was created, which characterised the free climbing style in the Alps.