Introductory course climbing without bolts | clean and trad climbing

• Procedure and meeting place

  • Meeting place

    Course location Bergsee: 09:45 am Göscheneralp
    Course location Bergell: 09:45 am Pranzaira Albignia post office stop
    Course location Alpstein: 08.00 a.m. Appenzell railway station

  • Day 1 - Approach to the hut and start of the course

    600 m Bergseehütte, 250 m Albigniahütte, 700 m Hundsteinhütte

    approx. 1.5 hours Bergseehütte, approx. 45 min Albigniahütte, approx. 2.5 hours Hundsteinhütte

    Arrival in the course area and ascent to the hut. We use the time to refresh our theoretical knowledge and discuss a few things. After just under an hour we reach the hut, refresh ourselves briefly with a coffee and then start the actual training.

  • Day 1 - Training on the rock

    4a-5c

    6 hours

    We divide the course content into different lessons. This allows us to build on existing knowledge and organise both teaching and learning systematically.

  • Day 1 - Evening

    2 hours

    After an intensive day of training and application, we take a break and enjoy a get-together before dinner. We use the time after dinner to immerse ourselves once again in tour planning and to explore different methods of risk management in greater depth. We plan the tour for the next day together.

  • Day 2 - Learn and apply

    4a-5c

    Intensive training and climbing on short routes in climbing gardens and climbing areas near the hut are on the programme. In the evening, we plan the multi-pitch route together that we will climb the next day.

    • Planning a multi-pitch (MSL) route in alpine terrain
      • 3×3
      • Risk management
    • Stand construction
      • Series connection
      • Equalising anchorage
      • Securing to stand or body
    • Rope handling
      • Half-rope technique
      • Abseiling
    • Placement of mobile safety devices
      • Friends
      • Wedges
    • Withdrawal from an MSL route
  • Day 3 - Apply and consolidate

    800-1000 metres altitude

    800 - 1000 metres altitude

    4a-5c

    8-10 h

    This is followed by a longer climbing tour where you can apply what you have learnt and actively gain your own experience. We climb the planned application tour together. We apply what we have learnt and leave our comfort zone in a safe environment.

  • Day 3 - Descent and end of course

    600

    approx. 17.00 hrs Post stop Göscheneralp, Pranzaira or hut car park Hundsteinhütte

    Finally, there is a joint course evaluation before the descent and journey home. During the descent, we talk about the past two days. What have you learnt, what is your next climbing goal and what else do you need?

• Course contents

  • Repetition of the basics and advanced techniques of multi-pitch climbing
  • Organisation at the stand
  • Stand construction with mobile belay devices
    • Equalising anchorage
    • Octopus
    • etc.
  • Attaching mobile safety devices
    • Friends
    • Wedges
    • Slings
    • etc.
  • Communication
  • Abseiling techniques

• Requirements

  • You have mastered the basics of belaying techniques on multi-pitch routes
  • You have gained initial experience while abseiling
  • We climb in the 4th and lower 5th difficulty ridge (4a-5c) depending on the ability of the participants. The focus is on training and not on the level of difficulty.
  • Stamina and surefootedness for climbing tours with a normal ascent and descent.

• Price and services

  • CHF 835.-
  • Small group with 4 - 6 guests per mountain guide.
  • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
  • Including overnight stay in a hut with half board
  • Excluding travel costs, any train tickets, personal consumption.

• Material and equipment

  • For this tour you need the following material from this PDF. We carry our equipment with us all the time. Pack only what is necessary.

That's what our guests say:

Impressions: Introductory course climbing without bolts

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