Introductory course climbing without bolts | clean and trad climbing

• Procedure and meeting place

  • Day 1 - Welcome and getting to know each other

    We get to know each other and clarify your expectations. Then we start the course with the hut approach to the respective hut.

  • Day 1 - Course start

    see venues

    We use the time during the ascent to refresh our theoretical knowledge. At the hut, we refresh ourselves briefly with a coffee and then start the actual training. We repack our rucksacks and take only the climbing equipment with us to the rock, leaving the rest in the hut.

    We will learn a lot of new things on the first day. We will take the time to deliberately repeat the topics several times to build confidence.

    Daily destinationYou have learnt the basics of climbing without bolts and know where you stand and can build on your skills and knowledge.

    Course content

    Rope team communication on an MSL route

    • Which commands do we use to communicate with each other
    • Communication via rope - rope commands

    Stand construction

    • Series connection
    • Equalising anchorage

    Save in MSL

    • Stand or body
    • Rope handling
    • Half-rope technique

    Abseiling

    • Set up abseiling
      •  Threading
      • Abseiling knots
    • 3 point check

    Planning 3×3

    • Which factors of the 3×3 planning pattern are particularly important
    • How to plan an MSL route
    • Meteo (which apps and tools do we use?)

    Introduction to mobile belay devices

    • Friends
    • Wedges
    • etc.
  • Day 2 - Learn and apply

    4a-5a

    6h

    We divide the course content into different lessons. This allows us to build on existing knowledge and organise both teaching and learning systematically.

    On the second day we build on what we have learnt, teach new techniques and apply them.

    Daily destination: You have acquired more knowledge and skills to climb (multi-pitch) routes with mobile belay devices. You are aware of where your strengths lie and where you still need to gain experience.

    Course content:

    Repeat what you have learnt

    • Communication
    • Stand construction with mobile belay devices
    • Save in MSL
    • Abseiling

    Short MSL route independent climbing

    • Gain initial experience in self-employment

    Mobile backup devices

    • You gain further experience in the use of mobile safety devices
      • Friends
      • Wedges
      • etc.

    Crack climbing techniques

    • You will learn which climbing techniques you can use when climbing without bolts

    Reflection:

    • How was the planned tour?
    • What have I learnt and what will I do differently next time?
  • Day 2 Evening

    1

    After an intensive day of training and application, we take a break and enjoy a get-together before dinner. We use the time after dinner to immerse ourselves once again in tour planning and to explore different methods of risk management in greater depth. We plan the tour for the next day together.

  • Day 3 - Apply and consolidate

    800-1000 metres altitude

    800 - 1000 metres altitude

    4a-5a

    6 h

    This is followed by a longer climbing tour where you can apply what you have learnt and actively gain your own experience. We climb the planned application tour together. We apply what we have learnt and leave our comfort zone in a safe environment.

  • Day 3 - Descent and end of course

    approx. 17:00

    At the end, there is a joint course evaluation before the descent and journey home. During the descent, we talk about the past few days. What have you learnt, what is your next climbing goal and what else do you need?

• Venues

  Mountain lake hut, Uri

  The area around the Bergseehütte is perfect. Great granite and the best tours await us.

  Meeting point: 09:45 Göscheneralp bus stop, Dammagletscher

  Approach to the Bergseehütte approx. 2 hours (600 metres altitude)

  Alpstein

  The Alpstein is characterised by great limestone and lots of climbing routes!

  Meeting point: 08.00 hrs Appenzell railway station

  Approach to the Hundsteinhütte approx. 3h (750 vertical metres)

• Requirements

  • You have already gained some experience on multi-pitch routes and are familiar with the following rope handling and techniques:
    • • Stand construction
      • Securing with ATC, Tuber etc.
      • Abseiling technique
      • Communication as a rope team on an MSL route
  • We climb in the 4th and lower 5th difficulty ridge (4a-5a) depending on the ability of the participants. The focus is on training and not on the level of difficulty.
  • Condition for climbing tours with a comfortable ascent and descent.

• Price and services

  • CHF 835.-
  • Small group with 4 - 6 guests per mountain guide.
  • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
  • Including overnight stay in a hut with half board
  • Excluding travel costs, any train tickets, personal consumption.

• Material and equipment

  • For this tour you need the following material from this PDF.

That's what our guests say:

Impressions: Introductory course climbing without bolts