Piz Bernina and Palü | Biancograt

The most famous crossing in the Engadin, unique and extremely rewarding, this route leads over the only 4,000 metre peak in Graubünden.

Technics
Endurance
To the dates and registration
Piz Bernina and Biancograt in profile

Biancograt, Graubünden

The crossing from Piz Bernina via the Biancograt is considered one of the most beautiful high tours in the Alps. The snow ridge on Piz Bernina is impressive and the climbing on the connecting ridge is varied. The best way to climb Piz Bernina is via the Biancograt with an overnight stay in the magnificently situated Marco e Rosa hut. On the last day, you can also cross the Piz Palü with its impressive glacier on the descent. A tour in a class of its own, which is only guided 1:1 and has good conditions, especially at the beginning of summer.

  • Procedure and meeting place

    • Meeting place

      We’ll meet at 2.00 pm in Pontresina.

    • Day 1

      900m

      10km

      From Pontresina, we’ll make the ascent to the Tschierva Hut together. On the way up, we’ll already be marvelling at tomorrow’s destination. Depending on your preference, we can make the ascent easier by hiring bikes or taking a horse-drawn carriage.

    • Day 2

      1500m

      500m

      ZS+, 3a

      8 - 10h

      Today we cross the Piz Bernina via the Biancograt. The approach leads over the moraine to the glacier below Fuorcla Prievlusa. Depending on the season, we climb this on a steep snowfield or via the via ferrata. From the Fuorcla Prievlusa, an easy climb leads over the first pre-summit. Then over the "shark fin" and onto the Biancograt. This is a 35 - 40° steep snow ridge, which is easy to walk on as long as there is still snow. This is how we reach the Piz Alv / Pizzo Bianco. Now we cross the rocky ridge over several small towers to Piz Bernina. The descent leads with several short abseils to the nearby Rifugio Marco e Rosa.

    • Day 3

      650m

      1250m

      WS, 2c

      We start at dawn and cross the Bellavista terrace to reach the rocky ridge of Piz Palü. We cross this over all 3 Palü summits, Piz Spinas, Palü east and west summit. The descent is really impressive between the crevasses of the Pers Glacier. We climb to the Diavolezza, from where we descend comfortably into the valley by cable car.

  • Requirements

    • You have already gained experience on alpine tours and can climb up to 3 degrees in mountain boots.
    • Walking on crampons is no problem for you and you have already gained some experience with them.
    • You feel comfortable in exposed terrain and have already climbed a few ridges.
  • Price and services

    • CHF 2,970.00
    • Rope team with 1 guest per mountain guide (1:1)
    • Includes professional planning and guidance by a mountain guide
    • Including accommodation in mountain huts with half-board for you and the mountain guide.
    • Excluding personal travelling expenses, any train tickets, personal consumption.
  • Material and equipment

Bergschaft tours and courses are conducted in German as standard. However, our mountain guides speak good English, as do many of the participants. If you speak English, you are of course very welcome. Depending on the tour, it may be worth asking us in advance whether the guide and the group are comfortable speaking English.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably via the Contact form.

Accommodation

  • Tschierva Hut

    The Tschierva Hut is situated at 2,358 metres above sea level at the foot of the Biancograt, overlooking a rugged glacial landscape. The hut warden has been looking after her guests with great passion for 26 years.

  • Rifugio Marco e Rosa

    The Marco e Rosa Hut is situated at 3,597 metres above sea level on a rocky ridge to the west of the Fuorcla Crast’Agüzza. As the hut is so exposed, it offers fantastic views. The hut, run by the CAI’s Valtellinese Section, was first built in 1913 and was rebuilt in the summer of 2002; it now offers 60 beds.

That's what our guests say:

Maciej Jonczy

An unforgettable mountain experience with the mountain guides Jonas, Ronny and Julian from Bergschaft! Everything was tiptop. Thanks to you and especially thanks to Ronny for the excellent guiding! Great, varied and challenging tour to Piz Bernina via the impressive Biancograt. We had to skip the Palü crossing due to the weather. But that in no way detracted from the experience.

Impressions: Biancograt

  • Piz Bernina and Biancograt in profile
  • Profile of the Biancograt
  • The Bernina massif with Palü and Bernina.
  • Glacier on the descent from Bernina.
  • Crevasses on the descent from Bernina.
  • On the Biancograt.
  • View of the Biancograt from the shark fin.
  • Mountaineers on the Biancograt on Piz Bernina
  • Piz Bernina seen from the Palü.
  • Piz Palü seen from the Diavolezza

How to get to Piz Bernina with us:

As Private Tour on your desired date with your group:

Book as a private tour

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    The weekend of 3–4 October 2026
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    1 - 4 October 2026, Thursday - Sunday, 4 days
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