Piz Bernina and Palü | Biancograt

The most famous crossing in the Engadin, unique and extremely rewarding, this route leads over the only 4,000 metre peak in Graubünden.

Technics
Endurance
To the dates and registration
Piz Bernina and Biancograt in profile

Bianco ridge

The crossing from Piz Bernina via the Biancograt is considered one of the most beautiful high tours in the Alps. The snow ridge on Piz Bernina is impressive and the climbing on the connecting ridge is varied. The best way to climb Piz Bernina is via the Biancograt with an overnight stay in the magnificently situated Marco e Rosa hut. On the last day, you can also cross the Piz Palü with its impressive glacier on the descent. A tour in a class of its own, which is only guided 1:1 and has good conditions, especially at the beginning of summer.

  • Procedure and meeting place

    • Meeting point and day 1

      900m

      10km

      We meet at 14.00 in Pontresina and climb together from here to the Tschierva hut. On the ascent we can already marvel at tomorrow's destination. Depending on your wishes, we can simplify the ascent with hire bikes or a carriage ride.

    • Day 2

      1500m

      500m

      ZS+, 3a

      8 - 10h

      Today we cross the Piz Bernina via the Biancograt. The approach leads over the moraine to the glacier below Fuorcla Prievlusa. Depending on the season, we climb this on a steep snowfield or via the via ferrata. From the Fuorcla Prievlusa, an easy climb leads over the first pre-summit. Then over the "shark fin" and onto the Biancograt. This is a 35 - 40° steep snow ridge, which is easy to walk on as long as there is still snow. This is how we reach the Piz Alv / Pizzo Bianco. Now we cross the rocky ridge over several small towers to Piz Bernina. The descent leads with several short abseils to the nearby Rifugio Marco e Rosa.

    • Day 3

      650m

      1250m

      WS, 2c

      We start at dawn and cross the Bellavista terrace to reach the rocky ridge of Piz Palü. We cross this over all 3 Palü summits, Piz Spinas, Palü east and west summit. The descent is really impressive between the crevasses of the Pers Glacier. We climb to the Diavolezza, from where we descend comfortably into the valley by cable car.

  • Requirements

    • You have already gained experience on alpine tours and can climb up to 3 degrees in mountain boots.
    • Walking on crampons is no problem for you and you have already gained some experience with them.
    • You feel comfortable in exposed terrain and have already climbed a few ridges.

  • Price and performance

    • CHF 2390.-
    • Rope team of 1 mountain guide and 1 guest, 1:1.
    • Including planning and implementation with mountain guide
    • Including overnight stays in huts with half board.
    • Excluding travel expenses, possible train tickets, personal consumption.

  • Material and equipment

Bergschaft tours and courses are conducted in German as standard. However, our mountain guides speak good English, as do many of the participants. If you speak English, you are of course very welcome. Depending on the tour, it may be worth asking us in advance whether the guide and the group are comfortable speaking English.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably via the Contact form.

That's what our guests say:

Maciej Jonczy

An unforgettable mountain experience with the mountain guides Jonas, Ronny and Julian from Bergschaft! Everything was tiptop. Thanks to you and especially thanks to Ronny for the excellent guiding! Great, varied and challenging tour to Piz Bernina via the impressive Biancograt. We had to skip the Palü crossing due to the weather. But that in no way detracted from the experience.

Impressions: Biancograt

    Piz Bernina and Biancograt in profile
    Profile of the Biancograt
    The Bernina massif with Palü and Bernina.
    Glacier on the descent from Bernina.
    Crevasses on the descent from Bernina.
    On the Biancograt.
    View of the Biancograt from the shark fin.
    Mountaineers on the Biancograt on Piz Bernina
    Piz Bernina seen from the Palü.
    Piz Palü seen from the Diavolezza

How to get to Piz Bernina with us:

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Information on endurance and technique

Here you will find the organisation of our tours as a guideline. If you are unsure which level suits you best, feel free to get in touch - We can help you!

Technics

Technology 1 - for beginners

Easy tours, suitable for beginners. The terrain is easy and moderate. No previous mountaineering experience is necessary.

High toursExperience in hiking and walking in pathless terrain. No previous knowledge of mountaineering necessary.

Technique 2 - Leisurely tours

Easy to slightly challenging tours with short, steeper sections that we master together and with coaching. You are ready for this level after a basic or taster course.

High toursYou know the basics of using ice axes and crampons. There are easy scrambling sections up to 1° difficulty.

Technique 3 - Medium tours

Medium-difficulty tours with short, technical sections that are easy to do with some previous experience. You have already done a few tours and feel confident with your equipment and technique.

High toursYou have practice walking with ice axe and crampons. There are scrambling sections up to the 2nd level of difficulty.

Technique 4 - First big tours

Challenging tours with longer, steeper passages that require a good level of experience and skill. We secure these sections with ropes and coach you through difficult sections. Suitable for adventure-seekers with solid basic training.

High toursYou have experience with ice axes and crampons and you can move efficiently on easy rocky terrain. There are scrambling sections up to the 3rd level of difficulty.

Technique 5 - Grand tours

Very demanding tours, with technical passages that require a good level of experience and skill. These are secured, but smooth, rapid progress is required. For experienced climbers with plenty of experience and a thirst for adventure.

High toursYou have extensive experience with ice axes and crampons. You move efficiently and safely in alpine terrain. Climbing routes up to the 4th level of difficulty.

Endurance

Endurance 1 - Easy tours

Easy tours with plenty of time to take a break and enjoy.

  • Elevation gain: approx. 500 - 800 metres per day, 
  • Pace: approx. 250 - 300 m / h.
Endurance 2 - Leisurely tours

"Normal" tour at a leisurely pace with 800 - 1000 vertical metres per day, ~300 hm / h.

Endurance 3 - Medium tours

Longer tours at a steady, fluid pace. A solid basic level of fitness is required here.

  • Elevation gain: approx. 1200 metres per day
  • Pace: approx. 350 m / h.
Endurance 4 - First big tours

Long and challenging tours at a brisk but constant pace. Ideal for active sports enthusiasts.

  • Elevation gain: up to 1500 metres per day
  • Pace: approx. 350 m / h.
Endurance 5 - Long tours

Very long tours with more than 1500 metres in altitude per day. Requires very good fitness and stamina.

  • Elevation metres: 1500 m + per day
  • Pace: approx. 400 m / h.

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