The highlight of this tour is spending a whole week travelling in the gigantic high mountains. We will be travelling on the rugged glaciers and experience up to ten mountains over 4000 metres high. We cross the Monte Rosa massif from hut to hut and finally spend the night in the highest hut in the Alps on the Capanna Margherita. A tour that we will all remember fondly for a long time to come!
Tour
The Spaghetti Tour is an impressive week of high-altitude tours. We cross many 4,000 metre peaks on huge glaciers in a really cool atmosphere. We start from Zermatt along the Swiss-Italian border and experience the high mountains to the full in 5 days. We spend the night in Italian huts with primi and secondi, hence the name "Spaghetti Tour". This tour is rightly popular. It leads past the highest mountains in Switzerland and the glacier landscape is simply gigantic. We often walk on the glacier. There are passages where we walk up a somewhat steeper snow flank, which is secured by the mountain guides, or we scramble up short sections of easy terrain. Just right for you if you have already had your first experience of mountaineering.
Procedure and meeting place
Meeting place
9.15 am Zermatt railway station, kiosk
The meeting point is directly at Zermatt railway station. The meeting point is easily accessible by public transport. If you are travelling by car, you will need to park it in Täsch and travel the last stretch to Zermatt by train. Zermatt is car-free. Welcome and introductions by the mountain guide.
Day 1
350m
750m
WS
Together we walk to the Klein Matterhorn cable car and ride up to 3800 metres. Depending on the group and conditions, we make the tour to the Breithorn. From up there we enjoy great views of Zermatt. We then descend to the Rifugio Val'd'Ayas.
Day 2
800m
650m
WS
Today we climb together over the Castor 4228 m to the Rifugio Quintino Sella at 3585 m. The firn ridge of the Castor is one of the highlights of the Spaghetti Tour. The firn ridge runs beautifully and imposingly to the summit of the Castor.
Day 3
1000m
800m
ZS-
Five 4000m peaks are on the programme today: ascent to the Passo del Naso 4100 m, Ludwigshöhe, Corno Nero 4321 m, Balmenhorn 4215 m and Vincent Pyramide 4215 m. We spend the night in the Rifugio Città di Mantova.
The ascent to Naso 4100m involves easy rock climbing. After the rock, we climb up the firn flank at about 45° in firn and ice.
Day 4
1200m
400m
WS
First part of the stage around the highest hut in the Alps: Parrotspitze 4432 m, Signalkuppe/Capanna Regina Margherita 4554 m, the highest hut in the Alps, where we will also spend the night. Depending on the weather and availability of the hut, the alternative is to descend from the Margherita hut on the same day and spend the night in the Monte Rosa hut.
Day 5
200m
1600m
WS
approx. 3 pm Rotenboden
Our final day is on the Zumsteinspitze 4563 m "just" above the hut. We do this just in time for sunrise. Descent via the Grenzgletscher to the Monte Rosa hut at 2798 m and then via via ferrata and glacier to the Gornergrat railway on the Rotenboden.
Conclusion
approx. 4 pm in Zermatt
Together we take the railway back to Zermatt. We travel back home individually with impressive images in our heads.
Summit destinations
Breithorn 4164 m
Castor 4228 m
Passo del Naso 4100 m
Corno Nero 4321 m
Balmenhorn 4215 m
Vicent Pyramid 4215 m
Ludwigshöhe 4341 m
Parrot tip 4432 m
Signaluppe/Capanna Regina Margherita 4554 m
Zumstein Peak 4563 m
Requirements
First experience with high altitude tours
First experiences with crampons and ice axe.
Fitness for a touring week at 4'000m with 800 - 1200m ascent and descent each time
It is advisable to acclimatise before the tour. To do this, we recommend travelling to Zermatt the day before, undertaking a short hike and spending the night in Zermatt. Alternatively, you can spend the night before on one of the Alpine passes.
Price and services
CHF 2390.-
Rope team with 3 guests per mountain guide.
Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
Including overnight stays in huts with half board.
Excluding travel costs, train tickets (small Matterhorn) and personal consumption.
Additional costs are incurred for the personal journey to and from the hut, the journey up the Klein Matterhorn (CHF 50 with Half-Fare travelcard) and personal consumption at the huts. Half board and overnight stays in the huts are included in the price.
If you would like to tackle this tour in a 3-person rope team, i.e. with 2 guests plus mountain guide, you are welcome to contact us. This costs 3190.- per person including overnight stay in a hut and half board.
The important thing on this tour is that you only pack the essentials. We carry our rucksack with us for five days. We can buy some food in the huts. Bring enough euros with you to pay for your food and drink in the Italian huts.
If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably directly at Sandra or via the Contact form.
Accommodation
Rifugio Guide d'Ayas
A friendly hut right on the edge of the glacier! The hut staff are authentically mountainous and even if there is always a schnapps to be had, you will be warmly welcomed here, get great coffee and eat good Italian food.
After crossing the Castor, you come to this hut right on the edge of the glacier. You can spend a cosy afternoon on the large stone terrace and there is also delicious cake!
This accommodation is located above the Punta Indren ski area and is easily accessible. It serves as our starting point to reach the area of the highest hut in Europe. We deliberately choose this accommodation as it is cosier and more spacious than the upper one.
The highest hut in Europe, on the summit of the Zumstienspitze! For a snack, there are "Margheritta" pizza slices here. It's incredible to spend the night up here and marvel at the sunset.
Are you looking for: Top mountain guides that you can rely on at all times, who are also up for a laugh and unforgettable and well-organised tours? Then I can only recommend Bergschaft to you. I look back on 5 great days of touring in the Monte Rosa massif and still have a grin on my face. Thank you and see you soon! :)
The Spaghetti Tour is the crossing of the Monte Rosa massif. Depending on the route chosen, the tour leads over 10 to 18 4,000 metre high mountains and mostly runs along the Swiss-Italian border. We always spend the night in Italian huts with primi and secondi and therefore often eat spaghetti, which is where the name "Spaghetti Tour" comes from. This is probably no longer quite politically correct, but it has become commonplace.
What is the Spaghetti Tour light?
The Spaghetti Tour light is the easiest version of the tour. It skips some of the peaks. After the Breithorn, the light variant leads via the southern valleys to the Mantova Hut using chair lifts. The part around the Castor and Naso is omitted. On this map section you can see the route of the Bergschaft in red and the light variant in orange. The sections with the lifts are marked in yellow.
How do you prepare for the spaghetti tour?
As preparation, it is a good idea to familiarise yourself with the crampons. We are often out and about on crampons for long periods of time, so it's good if you already know how to use them. It is also important that you acclimatise a little beforehand. It's best to go hiking at altitude the weekend before the week of the tour. It is also worth travelling to Zermatt the day before the tour or spending the night on one of the Alpine passes. We quickly ascend to almost 4,000 m on the Klein Matterhorn cable car and you'll be glad if you're already somewhat acclimatised.
Is it recommended to do the spaghetti tour with a mountain guide?
The mountain guides of Bergschaft know the Monte Rosa massif well and can tell you a lot about the area. If there is bad weather, the mountain guides can adapt the tour and carry out alternatives and thus make the tour week safe and exciting. We also take care of all the organisation and planning. You can come along and be enriched by a grandiose, shared experience.
If you are familiar with large glaciers, can assess the dangers and risks of the mountain world and enjoy planning and carrying out the tour yourself, you can also experience this tour without a mountain guide.
What are the key points of the Spaghetti Tour?
The key sections of this variant are mainly at the crossing of the Naso and Castor. Due to global warming, the Naso is pitting earlier and earlier and the ascent is often icy. The crossing of the Castor requires surefootedness and a head for heights. This is a narrow firn ridge where caution is required. Global warming is affecting the glacier and the dangers of glacier fractures, seracs and crevasse falls are increasing. Our mountain guides are sensitised to these dangers and pay particular attention to these places.
What is the Spaghetti Tour record?
There are always top endurance athletes who complete the Spaghetti Tour in record times. In summer 2020, Adrian Zurbrügg and Nicolas Hojac completed the tour from the Monte Rosa hut to the Klein Matterhorn in just over 14 hours. We take 5 days to do it. Before that, Ueli Steck and Andy Steindl's record was a good 14 hours. The rope teams are often travelling without ropes.
How many metres of altitude do you cover on the Spaghetti Tour?
The altitude difference of the entire tour with 18 peaks is just under 4500 m. In our variant, we will climb 3700 metres in altitude and descend 4700 metres.
Can you do the Spaghetti Tour on skis?
Sure! The Spaghetti Tour with skis is also a great tour. It is important that the glaciers are well snowed in, but otherwise nothing stands in the way.
What maps do you need for the Spaghetti Tour?
For the tour we need map sheet 1348 from Swisstopo.
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Here you will find the organisation of our tours as a guideline. If you are unsure which level suits you best, feel free to get in touch - We can help you!
Technics
Technology 1 - for beginners
Easy tours, suitable for beginners. The terrain is easy and moderate. No previous mountaineering experience is necessary.
High toursExperience in hiking and walking in pathless terrain. No previous knowledge of mountaineering necessary.
Technique 2 - Leisurely tours
Easy to slightly challenging tours with short, steeper sections that we master together and with coaching. You are ready for this level after a basic or taster course.
High toursYou know the basics of using ice axes and crampons. There are easy scrambling sections up to 1° difficulty.
Technique 3 - Medium tours
Medium-difficulty tours with short, technical sections that are easy to do with some previous experience. You have already done a few tours and feel confident with your equipment and technique.
High toursYou have practice walking with ice axe and crampons. There are scrambling sections up to the 2nd level of difficulty.
Technique 4 - First big tours
Challenging tours with longer, steeper passages that require a good level of experience and skill. We secure these sections with ropes and coach you through difficult sections. Suitable for adventure-seekers with solid basic training.
High toursYou have experience with ice axes and crampons and you can move efficiently on easy rocky terrain. There are scrambling sections up to the 3rd level of difficulty.
Technique 5 - Grand tours
Very demanding tours, with technical passages that require a good level of experience and skill. These are secured, but smooth, rapid progress is required. For experienced climbers with plenty of experience and a thirst for adventure.
High toursYou have extensive experience with ice axes and crampons. You move efficiently and safely in alpine terrain. Climbing routes up to the 4th level of difficulty.
Endurance
Endurance 1 - Easy tours
Easy tours with plenty of time to take a break and enjoy.
Elevation gain: approx. 500 - 800 metres per day,
Pace: approx. 250 - 300 m / h.
Endurance 2 - Leisurely tours
"Normal" tour at a leisurely pace with 800 - 1000 vertical metres per day, ~300 hm / h.
Endurance 3 - Medium tours
Longer tours at a steady, fluid pace. A solid basic level of fitness is required here.
Elevation gain: approx. 1200 metres per day
Pace: approx. 350 m / h.
Endurance 4 - First big tours
Long and challenging tours at a brisk but constant pace. Ideal for active sports enthusiasts.
Elevation gain: up to 1500 metres per day
Pace: approx. 350 m / h.
Endurance 5 - Long tours
Very long tours with more than 1500 metres in altitude per day. Requires very good fitness and stamina.