Basic course clean and trad climbing mountain lake | training and application days with mountain guide

Immerse yourself in the originality of climbing and take the plunge into alpine multi-pitch routes! Discover trad climbing from the ground up and learn to climb safely and cleanly without bolts.

Technics
Endurance
To the dates and registration
A climber abseiling down a multi-pitch route, with a beautiful mountain backdrop in the distance

Mountain lake hut, Uri

In alpine climbing, it's not just your route-finding skills that count, but also the safe use of mobile safety devices such as friends and wedges. This original form of climbing requires technical skill, precise work and a good eye for the rock - but rewards you with unique climbing experiences.

After a brief repetition of the most important techniques from multi-pitch climbing, we dive straight into the world of mobile belay devices. On the ground, we practise placing and assessing friends and wedges. Your mountain guide will give you valuable feedback so that you learn to make solid and reliable placements. We then apply what we have learnt directly on the wall - step by step, with increasing safety and confidence in your equipment.

We spend the days in the best granite, which is ideal for mobile belays and at the same time offers the greatest climbing pleasure. Our hut is ideally located in the immediate vicinity of fantastic climbing areas - and if you like, you can treat yourself to a refreshing dip in the nearby mountain lake at the end of the day.

  • Procedure and meeting place

    • Day 1 - Meeting point

      09:45 am, Göscheneralp

      We’ll meet at the Göscheneralp bus stop, Dammagletscher.

    • Day 1 - Welcome, getting to know each other and hut ascent

      600 Hm

      2h

      We get to know each other and clarify your expectations. Then we start the course with the ascent to the hut. The ascent to the Bergseehütte takes around 2 hours.

    • Day 1 - Training and climbing

      4a-5a

      We use the time during the ascent to refresh our theoretical knowledge and get in the mood for the coming days. Once we arrive at the hut, we treat ourselves to a quick coffee before we start the actual training. We then repack our rucksacks - the climbing-specific equipment goes with us to the rock, the rest we can leave in the hut.

      On the first day, there is a lot of new content on the programme. We deliberately take time to work through the content step by step and repeat it several times so that you gain confidence in its application.

      Daily destination:
      You will learn the basics of climbing without bolts and understand how to move safely on multi-pitch routes. You know where you stand and can build on your newly acquired knowledge and skills.

      Course content

      Communication in the rope team

      • What commands do we use to communicate clearly with each other?

      • Communication via the rope - rope commands and their meaning

      Stand construction

      • Series connection

      • Equalising anchorage

      Belaying on multi-pitches (MSL)

      • Securing at the belay station or with body belay

      • Rope handling

      • Half-rope technique

      Introduction to mobile belay devices

      • Familiarisation with and handling of friends and wedges

      • Placing and assessing the fuses on the floor

      • Stand construction with mobile belay devices

      Abseiling

      • Set up and prepare abseiling points

      • Threading and knotting

      • The 3-point check - safety before abseiling

    • Day 2 - Learning and applying

      4a-5a

      We divide the course content into different lessons to build on existing knowledge. This keeps the learning process structured and allows you to consolidate what you have learnt step by step. On the second day, we deepen the content of the first day, expand your knowledge and apply the new techniques directly on the rock.

      Daily destination:
      You have acquired additional knowledge and skills to safely climb multi-pitch routes with mobile belay devices. You recognise your strengths and know in which areas you would like to gain more experience.

      Course content

      Repetition and consolidation

      • Communication in the rope team

      • Stand construction with mobile belay devices

      • Belaying on multi-pitches

      • Abseiling and retreating

      Climb short multi-pitch routes independently

      • Gain your first experience of self-employment

      • Application of the techniques learnt so far

      Mobile belay devices

      • Deepen your knowledge of friends, wedges & co.

      • Practical application and assessment of the placements in the route

      Crack climbing techniques

      • Introduction to the basic movements and techniques of crack climbing

      • Use of hand and foot clamps (jams) and other methods for safe ascent

      Reflection

      • How did the planned tour go?

      • What have I learnt - and what will I do differently next time?

       

      After an intensive day of training and practical application, we take a break and enjoy each other's company before dinner. After dinner, we use the time to delve back into tour planning and explore different risk management methods in greater depth. Together, we plan the tour for the next day.

    • Day 3 - Apply and consolidate

      4a-5a

      A longer climbing tour is planned where you can apply what you have learnt and gain valuable experience of your own. Together we will go on the planned application tour, consolidate what we have learnt so far and - in a safe environment - dare to step out of your comfort zone.

    • Day 3 – Descent and course evaluation

      On the final day, we’ll review the course together before we begin our descent and make our way home. During the descent, we’ll talk about the past few days. What have you learnt, what’s your next climbing goal, and what else do you need to achieve it?

    • Conclusion

      approx. 16:00 hrs, Göscheneralp

      We’ll say our goodbyes at around 4.00 pm back at Göscheneralp. With plenty of new knowledge and valuable experiences in our rucksacks, we’ll each set off on our journey home.

  • Requirements

    • You have gained experience on multi-pitch routes and are familiar with the following rope handling and techniques:
        • Stand construction
        • Securing with ATC, Tuber etc.
        • Abseiling technique
        • Communication as a rope team on an MSL route
    • We climb in the 4th and lower 5th difficulty ridge (4a-5a) depending on the ability of the participants. The focus is on training and not on the level of difficulty.
    • Condition for climbing tours with a comfortable ascent and descent.
  • Price and services

    • CHF 850.-
    • Small group with 4 - 6 guests per mountain guide.
    • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
    • Including overnight stay in a hut with half board.
    • Excluding travelling expenses and personal consumption.
  • Material and equipment

Bergschaft tours and courses are conducted in German as standard. However, our mountain guides speak good English, as do many of the participants. If you speak English, you are of course very welcome. Depending on the tour, it may be worth asking us in advance whether the guide and the group are comfortable speaking English.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably via the Contact form.

Accommodation

Mountain lake hut

The Bergseehütte is idyllically situated above Göscheneralp on the emerald green mountain lake, surrounded by impressive granite walls. It is an ideal starting point for climbing tours, alpine activities and cosy days in the middle of the Uri Alps.

  • A beautiful mountain lake with mountains in the background.
  • Mountain lake hut

That's what our guests say:

Martin Probst

Impressions: Basic course in clean and traditional climbing Bergsee

  • Women’s group inspects a climbing spot together
  • A mountain guide explains crack climbing and how to use Friends in parallel cracks. The group watches with interest.
  • A male or female climber, whilst trad climbing, concentrates on placing a Friend (Camalot) in a perfect granite crack.
  • A climber at a belay station during multi-pitch climbing.
  • A climber clipping friends and nuts onto their harness. Getting ready for crack climbing and clean climbing.
  • A mountain guide sorts the nuts in the nut set. He is preparing for crack and trad climbing.
  • A female climber sets up a mobile belay station using Friends and nuts for clean and trad climbing.
  • A mountain guide with a rucksack. In the background, a beautiful granite face ideal for crack climbing.
  • A beautiful mountain lake with mountains in the background.
  • A climbing group on the descent after the crack climbing and traditional climbing course. A lovely view with clouds in the background.
  • Blueberries in the climbing garden
  • A female climber leading a route on a steep rock face whilst sport climbing in Switzerland in glorious sunshine.
  • A climber ties in using half-ropes and demonstrates how to tie figure-of-eight knots correctly when using the half-rope technique.
  • A climber is getting ready to climb. He is putting on his crack-climbing shoes.
  • Multi-pitch climber.
  • A female mountain guide explains the correct crack-climbing technique to a group. A male mountain guide demonstrates the piazz technique.
  • A group taking part in a rock climbing course.

This is how you learn clean and trad climbing with us:

  • 25–27 June 2027, Friday–Sunday, 3 days

    Freie Plätze
    Mountain guides
    Still Pending
    CHF 850.-
  • 9–11 July 2027, Friday–Sunday, 3 days

    Freie Plätze
    Mountain guides
    Still Pending
    CHF 850.-
  • 20–22 August 2027, Friday–Sunday, 3 days

    Freie Plätze
    Mountain guides
    Still Pending
    CHF 850.-
  • 24–26 September 2027, Friday–Sunday, 3 days

    Freie Plätze
    Mountain guides
    Still Pending
    CHF 850.-

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