10:15 a.m., Vernayaz Station
Basic course clean and trad climbing Lower Valais | training and application days with mountain guide
Immerse yourself in the originality of climbing and take the plunge into alpine multi-pitch routes! Discover trad climbing from the ground up and learn to climb safely and cleanly without bolts.
In alpine climbing, it's not just your route-finding skills that count, but also the safe use of mobile safety devices such as friends and wedges. This original form of climbing requires technical skill, precise work and a good eye for the rock - but rewards you with unique climbing experiences.
After a brief repetition of the most important techniques from multi-pitch climbing, we dive straight into the world of mobile belay devices. On the ground, we practise placing and assessing friends and wedges. Your mountain guide will give you valuable feedback so that you learn to make solid and reliable placements. We then apply what we have learnt directly on the wall - step by step, with increasing safety and confidence in your equipment.
The Lower Valais, with its climbing areas in Dorenaz and Bramois, offers ideal conditions for crack climbers: easily accessible single-pitch routes of varying degrees of difficulty are waiting to be explored. Here you can gain lots of new experience in a fantastic setting, improve your technical skills and significantly increase your climbing level.
Procedure and course content
We will meet at the station. From there, we will travel together to the nearby climbing park.
On the first day, there is a lot of new content on the programme. We deliberately take time to work through the content step by step and repeat it several times so that you gain confidence in its application.
Daily destination:
You will learn the basics of climbing without bolts and understand how to move safely on multi-pitch routes. You know where you stand and can build on your newly acquired knowledge and skills.Course content
Communication in the rope team
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What commands do we use to communicate clearly with each other?
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Communication via the rope - rope commands and their meaning
Stand construction
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Series connection
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Equalising anchorage
Belaying on multi-pitches (MSL)
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Securing at the belay station or with body belay
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Rope handling
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Half-rope technique
Introduction to mobile belay devices
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Familiarisation with and handling of friends and wedges
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Placing and assessing the fuses on the floor
- Stand construction with mobile belay devices
Abseiling
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Set up and prepare abseiling points
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Threading and knotting
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The 3-point check - safety before abseiling
We then drive together to our cosy accommodation. In the evening, we enjoy a meal together and plan the coming days together.
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We divide the course content into different lessons to build on existing knowledge. This keeps the learning process structured and allows you to consolidate what you have learnt step by step. On the second day, we deepen the content of the first day, expand your knowledge and apply the new techniques directly on the rock.
Daily destination:
You have acquired additional knowledge and skills to safely climb multi-pitch routes with mobile belay devices. You recognise your strengths and know in which areas you would like to gain more experience.Course content
Repetition and consolidation
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Communication in the rope team
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Stand construction with mobile belay devices
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Belaying on multi-pitches
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Abseiling and retreating
Mobile belay devices
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Deepen your knowledge of friends, wedges & co.
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Practical application and assessment of the placements in the route
Crack climbing techniques
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Introduction to the basic movements and techniques of crack climbing
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Use of hand and foot clamps (jams) and other methods for safe ascent
Reflection
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How did the planned tour go?
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What have I learnt - and what will I do differently next time?
We end the evenings together in a relaxed atmosphere – enjoying delicious food, talking shop about friends and wedges, or sometimes going out to a cosy restaurant.
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We complete the course together
Requirements
- You have gained experience on multi-pitch routes and are familiar with the following rope handling and techniques:
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- Stand construction
- Securing with ATC, Tuber etc.
- Abseiling technique
- Communication as a rope team on an MSL route
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- We climb in the 4th and lower 5th difficulty ridge (4a-5a) depending on the ability of the participants. The focus is on training and not on the level of difficulty.
- Condition for climbing tours with a comfortable ascent and descent.
- You have gained experience on multi-pitch routes and are familiar with the following rope handling and techniques:
Price and services
- CHF 850.-
- Small group with 4 - 6 guests per mountain guide.
- Includes overnight stay in comfortable accommodation with double rooms.
- Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
- Breakfast included.
- CHF 850 Exclusive:
- Journey to Vernayaz
- Catering in restaurants
Material and equipment
- For this tour you need the material from this PDF. We carry our equipment with us the whole time. Only pack the essentials.
Bergschaft tours and courses are conducted in German as standard. However, our mountain guides speak good English, as do many of the participants. If you speak English, you are of course very welcome. Depending on the tour, it may be worth asking us in advance whether the guide and the group are comfortable speaking English.
Accommodation
B&B Restaurant Le Pernollet
We will be staying overnight in the cosy B&B Restaurant Le Pernollet in Evionnaz. The accommodation is centrally located between the climbing areas of Dorenaz and Bramois and offers us a hearty breakfast and a relaxed atmosphere after an intense day of climbing. The perfect place to recharge your batteries and end the day together.
Impressions: Basic course in clean and traditional climbing in the Lower Valais
This is how you learn clean and trad climbing with us:
We currently have no public dates advertised. You are welcome to Contact us with your preferred date and we'll take a look together! You can also always book this tour as a Private Tour book.
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