Advanced course multi-pitch alpine | Alpine application tours with mountain guide:in

Technique, tactics and lots of fun on solid granite. You will learn how to climb alpine multi-pitch routes with us!

Venues:

Sewen

Technics
Endurance
To the dates and registration
Climbing Salbit South Ridge

Granite is beautiful rock to climb on. However, there are a few tips and tricks to bear in mind when climbing granite. We spend the weekend in super rock and will be in the Sewenhütte stay overnight. The region around the Sewenhütte is a climbing paradise par excellence. It has bombastic rocks, great climbing gardens and multi-pitch routes of varying difficulty. It also has a lovely swimming lake and the hut is superbly catered and beautifully situated. In this area we would like to refresh the basic techniques of multi-pitch climbing together or learn new ones, and we have enough time to go into advanced techniques, tips and tricks. We will also show you the basics of climbing with mobile safety devices, i.e. cams and wedges. We'll put what we've learnt into practice straight away and go on suitable multi-pitch routes. On this weekend you will learn a lot about climbing in granite and, if you wish, you can also lead climb yourself and gain confidence in the equipment and technique.

  • Procedure and meeting place

    The course takes place in the Uri Alps - around the Sewen hut

    • Meeting place

      09:00 am, Erstfeld railway station

      From here we travel to Gorezmettlen in carpools or by Alpine taxi.

    • Day 1 - Approach

      500 Hm

      1-1.5 hours

      Once we have completed the journey over the Susten Pass, we start the ascent to the hut. We use the time to refresh our theoretical knowledge and discuss a few things. After just under an hour we reach the hut, refresh ourselves briefly with a coffee and then start the actual training.

    • Day 1 - Training on the rock

      6 hours

      We divide the course content into different lessons. This allows us to build on existing knowledge and organise both teaching and learning systematically.

    • Day 1 - Evening

      2 hours

      After an intensive day of training and application, we take a break and enjoy a get-together before dinner. We use the time after dinner to immerse ourselves once again in tour planning and to explore different methods of risk management in greater depth. We plan the tour for the next day together.

    • Day 2 - Application tour

      800 metres altitude

      800 metres altitude

      8-9 hours

      Together we climb the planned application tour. We apply newly learnt skills and leave our comfort zone in a safe environment.

    • Day 2 - Descent and end of course

      600 Hm

      17:00, Gorezmettlen

      During the descent, we talk about the past two days. What have you learnt, what is your next climbing goal and what else do you need?

  • Course content

    • Planning a multi-pitch (MSL) route in alpine terrain
      • 3×3
      • Risk management
    • Stand construction
      • Series connection
      • Equalising anchorage
      • Securing to stand or body
    • Rope handling
      • Half-rope technique
      • Abseiling
    • Placement of mobile safety devices
      • Friends
      • Wedges
    • Withdrawal from an MSL route
  • Requirements

    • You have already gained some experience on multi-pitch routes and are familiar with the following rope handling and techniques:
      • Stand construction
      • Securing with ATC, Tuber etc.
      • Abseiling technique
      • Communication as a rope team on an MSL route
    • We climb in the 4th and lower 5th difficulty ridge (4a-5a) depending on the ability of the participants. The focus is on training and not on the level of difficulty.
    • Condition for climbing tours with a comfortable ascent and descent.

    The following course can be attended in preparation - Climbing course multi-pitch | climbing weekend with application tours

  • Price and services

    • CHF 520.-
    • Takes place with up to 6 guests per mountain guide.
    • Including overnight stay in a hut with half board.
    • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his/her travel expenses.
    • Excluding travelling expenses, possible taxi rides, personal consumption.
  • Material and equipment

    • For this tour you need the following material from this PDF.
    • The group material is divided up shortly beforehand.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably directly at Larissa or Florian or via the Contact form

Impressions: Advanced alpine multi-pitch course

    Climbing in granite
    Crack Climbing at Suworov Pillar
    Jonas Schwarz climbing

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Information on endurance and technique

Here you will find an explanation of the levels of our courses and tours. If you are not sure whether the tour or course is suitable for you, then contact us!

Technics

Technique 1 - For beginners

An easy tour and suitable for beginners. The terrain is moderate.

Technique 2 - Normal tour

A "normal" tour and easily doable with some previous knowledge. Only short sections are a little steeper or more technical. This tour can be taken after a basic course.

Technique 3 - More demanding tour

A more challenging tour that requires some practice. There are some steep and technical passages. If you have a bit of experience and want to embark on an adventure, this is the right place for you!

Technique 4 - Difficult

Demanding tour that requires a good level of experience and skill. There are always longer steep and technical passages. For the experienced and adventurous!

Endurance

Stamina 1 - Cosy

Leisurely tour at a slow pace with 500 - 800 metres of altitude difference per day, ~250 - 300 hm / h.

Stamina 2 - Normal

"Normal" tour at a leisurely pace with 800 - 1000 vertical metres per day, ~300 hm / h.

Endurance 3 - Sporty

Longer tour at a normal pace with around 1200 metres in altitude per day, ~400 hm / h.

Endurance 4 - Very enduring

Long tours at a normal, flowing pace from 1500 metres in altitude per day, 400 m / h.

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