High tour course Engadin & Piz Palü | rock, snow and ice with a mountain guide

Learn and experience the world of mountaineering - over wide glaciers and easy rocky ridges.

Technics
Endurance
To the dates and registration

Engadin & Piz Palü

Have you always wanted to go on an alpine tour and learn the basics of mountaineering yourself? Then you've come to the right place! The Engadin with its alpine icons - the Piz Palü, the Piz Bernina and the impressive Morteratsch glacier - offers the perfect environment. Together we immerse ourselves in the fascinating world of rock and ice and combine learning with real experience. We organise the course in two stages: First, the programme includes rock and ice training around the Bovalhütte. Then we will put what we have learnt into practice on an application tour on Piz Palü - starting from the Diavolezza mountain inn. Our starting point is Morteratsch. On the first two days, we will devote ourselves intensively to training on the rock. We then climb up to Diavolezza via the Morteratsch and Vadret Pers glaciers. On the way, we deepen our knowledge of glacier techniques and tour planning - and prepare ourselves optimally for the final summit day. The crowning glory is the ascent of the Piz Palü - a magnificent high-altitude tour that puts what we have learnt into practice in an impressive way. In this rock and ice course, you will learn the basic techniques of mountaineering - step by step, practically and in perfect alpine terrain.

  • Procedure and course content

    • Meeting place

      10:20 am, Morteratsch railway station

      Meeting point is 10:20 am, Morteratsch railway station (to coincide with the train connection, arrival 10:18 am)

    • Day 1 - Hut approach and rock training

      We start the course and explain the exact procedure and go into detail about the course content. We will get to know each other and clarify your expectations. On the first day we will learn a lot of new things, applied and practice-orientated.

      The ascent to the hut takes about 2 hours. We will spend the first two nights in the Bovalhütte. The last night will be spent at the Diavolezza mountain inn.

      Daily destination: You will learn the basics of mountaineering and gain your first experience on a rope. You will acquire knowledge of techniques that you can use to secure yourself and your rope partner.

      Course content: 

      Rock training

      • The most important knots
      • Roping techniques and belaying
      • Short rope
      • Abseiling

      Materials and equipment

      • Ropes
      • Carabiner
      • Crampons

      Theory Meteo (evening)

      • Which apps and tools do we use

      Tour planning (evening)

      • Tour planning for the next day
    • Day 2 - Rock training and application tour

      During an application tour, we repeat what we learnt the day before and learn something new.

      Daily destination: You will continue to gain experience in the various subject areas and become more confident in their application.

      Course content: 

      Repeat what you have learnt

      • Rock training
      • Material and equipment

      Short rope in the application

      • Level 1 - Walking together on the short rope
      • Stage 2 - Over short difficult sections
      • Level 3 - Micro rope lengths
      • Level 4 - Climbing together on a stretched rope
      • Level 5 - Secure entire rope lengths

      Stands

      • Single fixed point - serrated sling
      • Two bolts
      • Extended stand

      Abseiling

      • Abseiling on high tours

      Tour planning (evening)

      • 3×3 tour planning
      • Avalanche bulletin
      • Avalanche awareness
      • Risk check
    • Day 3 – Ice training

      Today we will be exploring the ice and snow. Along the way, we will learn how to safely use crampons, ice axes and rope techniques on snow and firn. We will also enjoy fantastic views and a magnificent evening atmosphere.

      Daily destination: You can apply and consolidate what you have learnt and gain more confidence.

      Course content: 

      Walking with ice axe and crampons

      • Crampon techniques
      • Pimple brake
      • Ascent and descent in snow and firn

      Roping up on the glacier

      • Rope distance
      • Knots in the rope
      • Behaviour on the glacier

      Tour planning and reflection (in the evening)

      • Clarify feedback and open expectations
      • Tour planning for the next day
      • Orientation with map, compass & altimeter
    • Day 4 - Final tour

      At the end, a challenging tour tailored to your needs awaits us: ice, glacier and rope technique once again. Here you can apply and deepen your knowledge and gain new confidence. We will support you individually so that you can deepen your knowledge and apply it directly.

      Daily destination: Your expectations are fulfilled and you go home satisfied and with a lot of joy

      Repeat what you have learnt

      • Repetition: ice axe, crampons, glacier techniques

      • Crevasse rescue (self-ascent, team hoist)

      • T-anchoring & simple pulley block

      • Individual coaching on the road

      • Feedback & reflection: What do you take away? How can you continue?

      Orientation

      • Reading maps in the field
      • Compass
      • Altimeter, contour lines and slope

      Reflection

      • Feedback
      • What's next?
    • Conclusion

      Approx. 15:00, Morteratsch railway station

      We finish the course together at around 15:00 at Morteratsch railway station.

  • Requirements

    • No previous experience is necessary.
    • Experience in hiking and walking in pathless terrain is an advantage.
    • Condition for high altitude tours with around 1000hm ascent and descent at a comfortable pace (~300hm/h).
  • Price and services

    • CHF 1190.-
    • Small group with 4 - 6 guests per mountain guide.
    • Including accommodation costs with half board.
    • Including planning and realisation with mountain guide and his travel expenses.
    • Excluding travel expenses, personal consumption.
    • Rental equipment: crampons, helmet, ice axe, climbing harness can be hired for this offer from the Sport Trend Shop in Hinwil can be hired at a special price of CHF 55. You can also get other mountain sports equipment there with the best advice.
  • Material and equipment

Bergschaft tours and courses are conducted in German as standard. However, our mountain guides speak good English, as do many of the participants. If you speak English, you are of course very welcome. Depending on the tour, it may be worth asking us in advance whether the guide and the group are comfortable speaking English.

If you have any questions, please feel free to contact us, preferably via the Contact form.

Accommodation

  • Boval hut

    A classic SAC hut in a traditional stone building - with a sunny terrace and far-reaching views of the imposing Morteratsch Glacier!

    The Boval hut with Bianco Grat and Piz Bernina in the background
  • Diavolezza mountain inn

    Here you can enjoy a unique backdrop with views of Piz Palü and Piz Bernina with the famous Biancograt - atmospheric at dawn and in the glowing sunset. The cosy accommodation with comfortable beds, shower and warm hospitality rounds off the experience perfectly.

Impressions: High tour course Palü

    Piz Palü seen from the Diavolezza

So come with us to the high tours and the Piz Palü:

As Private Tour on your desired date with your group:

Book as a private tour

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Information on endurance and technique

Here you will find the organisation of our tours as a guideline. If you are unsure which level suits you best, feel free to get in touch - We can help you!

Technics

Technology 1 - for beginners

Easy tours, suitable for beginners. The terrain is easy and moderate. No previous mountaineering experience is necessary.

High toursExperience in hiking and walking in pathless terrain. No previous knowledge of mountaineering necessary.

Technique 2 - Leisurely tours

Easy to slightly challenging tours with short, steeper sections that we master together and with coaching. You are ready for this level after a basic or taster course.

High toursYou know the basics of using ice axes and crampons. There are easy scrambling sections up to 1° difficulty.

Technique 3 - Medium tours

Medium-difficulty tours with short, technical sections that are easy to do with some previous experience. You have already done a few tours and feel confident with your equipment and technique.

High toursYou have practice walking with ice axe and crampons. There are scrambling sections up to the 2nd level of difficulty.

Technique 4 - First big tours

Challenging tours with longer, steeper passages that require a good level of experience and skill. We secure these sections with ropes and coach you through difficult sections. Suitable for adventure-seekers with solid basic training.

High toursYou have experience with ice axes and crampons and you can move efficiently on easy rocky terrain. There are scrambling sections up to the 3rd level of difficulty.

Technique 5 - Grand tours

Very demanding tours, with technical passages that require a good level of experience and skill. These are secured, but smooth, rapid progress is required. For experienced climbers with plenty of experience and a thirst for adventure.

High toursYou have extensive experience with ice axes and crampons. You move efficiently and safely in alpine terrain. Climbing routes up to the 4th level of difficulty.

Endurance

Endurance 1 - Easy tours

Easy tours with plenty of time to take a break and enjoy.

  • Elevation gain: approx. 500 - 800 metres per day, 
  • Pace: approx. 250 - 300 m / h.
Endurance 2 - Leisurely tours

"Normal" tour at a leisurely pace with 800 - 1000 vertical metres per day, ~300 hm / h.

Endurance 3 - Medium tours

Longer tours at a steady, fluid pace. A solid basic level of fitness is required here.

  • Elevation gain: approx. 1200 metres per day
  • Pace: approx. 350 m / h.
Endurance 4 - First big tours

Long and challenging tours at a brisk but constant pace. Ideal for active sports enthusiasts.

  • Elevation gain: up to 1500 metres per day
  • Pace: approx. 350 m / h.
Endurance 5 - Long tours

Very long tours with more than 1500 metres in altitude per day. Requires very good fitness and stamina.

  • Elevation metres: 1500 m + per day
  • Pace: approx. 400 m / h.

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